Temple Bar, cerca 1996, from Parliament street to Westmoreland street on any given Friday from noon til midnight was host to 9 or 10 trad sessions. Just before things got mic-ed up and when the recent regeneration of Dublins Cultural quarter, the temple bar area was vibrant and fresh. Young Irish musicians and dancers flocked to temple bar, in search of a good tune and musical opportunities.
Their parents generation had enjoyed the folk revival near Merrion square. Donoghues, the Baggot Inn on Baggot street still had music, but up and coming musicians had tired of their parents music; The Dubliners and The Dublin City Ramblers, Luke Kelly and were looking for something new. Sessions were open and without the formality of microphones. Travelling musicians would drop in during the day for a tune and stay til the wee hours. Tourism had not hit the heights of recent times and artists and students mingled in the pizza joints and slightly more upscale restaurants dotting the area.
Ceoiltoir was based in The Button Factory studios. Arguably, we owned Temple Bar…at least it felt like we owned it. There was a place for music and art in the city. The names and faces that passed Eddie and Co. at the studio desk downstairs were numerous and often shrouded in large sunglasses. Through the soundproof doors we could hear nothing, but now and a gain a snatch of a drum kit, saxophone, guitar teased our senses. Was that really Van Morrison’s band in there?
Small groups and larger bands practiced day in day out on sets to be played at out of town festivals and events around the country and the world. Auditions for shows in the Viking centre started careers for dancers and musicians alike. Riverdance needed talent for it’s new tour, in America. Ambitions were high.
Now let’s not allow our rose-tinted glasses to get too fogged up. Even in the early 90’s one or 2 musicians were regularly paid to turn up and play for a few hours, often bringing friends and usually including a pint (or 2) for musicians. But the music was world class and more than a few musicians managed to make a living out of Gogo’s , the Aul Dub and the Norseman.
Then the word got out. The tourists flocked. The pubs filled. Microphones and PA systems were need for volume (and musicians sanity). Nights got longer. Tip jars got fuller.
How long was the hey-day? It’s not quite over yet. But joining sessions is not what it was. The pressure is on to keep the music churning, and people like a song they can sing along with. Ed Sheerin perhaps, or the odd song for the Swifties in town from Manchester on a hen for the weekend. He who pays the piper calls the tune and all.
Many of the best musicians formed bands and toured for decades (are ye back yet?). Ceoiltoir moved to Ballyfermot. Some moved away from Dublin or sought steadier jobs. Quieter tunes in bars further afield became more appealing. It is nice to hear each other after all.
There are still a few “nice, quiet” sessions to be had in Temple bar to this day. But sometimes the pleasure is in the seeking more than the finding.